Bill's Aircraft Factory
First
Flight
Trips
Horizontal
Stabilizer
Vertical
Stabilizer
Elevator
Trim Tab
Rudder
Wings &
Fuel Tank
Ailerons
Flaps
Fuselage
Page 1
Page 2
Page 3
Page 4
Engine & FWF
Page 1
Page 2
Page 3
Instrument Panel
Electrical System
Building in the Basement and Moving to the Airport
Dynon Autopilot
Installation
Things to Consider
Tools
Products
Tell me again
Helpful Links
Plane Pictures
FAQ's
E-mail:
bill (at)
repucci (dot) com
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Aileron construction
Caution - Man running (with) power tools
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E
The process starts by fitting the stainless steel counterweight to the
aileron spar. Here is a picture of the left and right structures.
They will be covered by an aluminum skin, like the rest of the plane.
(5/6/04)
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F
Next up is cutting and shaping 28 aileron stiffeners. These little
things really do make a difference as the aileron skins are very flimsy
without them. In the foreground is a finished stiffener,
behind that is the stock the stiffener is cut from and behind that is
the aileron skin with all but one stiffener riveted in place. (5/8/04)
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E
The stiffeners are then match drilled through the skins, into the table,
and clecoed in place to hold them in alignment. (5/11/04) |
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F
After all the match drilling and deburring the parts are acid etched, alodined,
and primed. (5/12/04) |
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E
Here I am drilling the left aileron skins to the spar. The assembly
is being held in place by four, 25 lb bags of led shot. (5/13/04) |
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F
After trashing four #30 bits drilling the leading aileron edge
to the stainless steel counterbalance you get this porcupine
looking thing. (5/13/04)
There is a better way. Assemble the aileron
as per the instructions, then use your #30 bit to mark the location of the
holes in the stainless steel counterbalance. When ready, disassemble
the entire thing and drill out the holes in the counterbalance. This
will keep you from wallowing out the holes in the leading edge skin. |
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E
The trailing edges of the rudder, ailerons, and flaps have to be match
drilled at a funny angle while holding an aluminum wedge in place that
runs the length of each part. Once the holes are drilled the part needs
to be countersunk. I made this little jig to hold the wedge while I
countersink it. The two little pieces were off the end of the wedge.
They were then drilled and nailed into place with the nails being set
below their surface. This jig holds the surface of the wedge flat, which
makes counter sinking much easier. (5/21/04) |
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F
Here is a picture of the jig with a wedge in place and the
countersinking tool inserted in one of the holes.
(5/21/04) |
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E
The trick to getting a straight riveted trailing edge is to
start with a straight clecoed trailing edge. I found
that by putting all the clecos in from one side caused my TE
to bend. By alternating the clecos top and bottom the TE
miraculously straightened itself out. Note the call outs
for the rivet sizes on the top of the aileron. This
keeps me from doing something dumb, like putting the wrong
rivet in the wrong hole. (05/23/04) |
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F
Take a look at the rivet set I ground down before reading the
next caption, it will help you understand how I drove my
rivets. |
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E
After carefully squeezing the rivets in the trailing edge with a set of
custom ground rivet sets, the edge came out straight without the use of
proseal or other glue. I just simply followed the directions with
regard to the order of squeezing them. Start by 1/2 squeezing one
rivet in the middle, then one on each end. Then 1/2 squeeze a rivet
between the middle one and one of the ends, then 1/2 squeeze one on the
other side. Keep splitting the difference between the rivets while
moving back and fourth along the trailing edge. Once there is a 1/2
squeezed rivet in every hole, go back and squeeze them the rest of the way
in the same order in which they were 1/2 squeezed. (5/23/04) |
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F
Here is a picture of how I was able to squeeze the last rivet
on the end aileron ribs. I used the handle of a small
pair of needle nose pliers to "open" the rib and then used my
Avery's no-hole yoke to reach the rivet. I had to
partially squeeze the rivet, push it down with a center punch
and then finish squeezing it the rest of the way.
(6/6/04) |
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